Leura Cascade


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Photo

Title     Leura Cascade
Photographer     munecito/Will (450) Send mail to this user
Portfolio     Pentax K20D
F-stop     f/22
Categories     Landscape
Nature
HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging)
Lens     smc PENTAX-DA 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 ED AL
Camera     Pentax K20D
Content advisory     G (general audiences)
Submitted     November 3, 2009 7:38:31 PM CST
Views     173
Rating     4 Thumb-up

My first try at HDRI. Three images combines in PS of one of the small cascades at Leura. NSW. Australia

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Thumb-up    from donnnnnny/Donald (898) Send mail to this user on November 3, 2009 10:07:44 PM CST (1)

Not a bad try for a HDR there are some very hot areas in the water, pity as it spoils the whole shot. I too have recently got into HDR what i find is bracket at least 5 shots, set camera to time release(if you have it) and try not to over t do the adjustments cheers donald

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Thumb-up    from edj802/Eric (737) This user is a Premium Member Send mail to this user on November 3, 2009 8:57:53 PM CST (1) Early critique

Hi Will, one idea you could try in PS to salvage this with less blown highlights is to clone "unblown" pixels into the blown areas, at least around the edges of the blown spots to decrease them if not eliminate them. Kind of tedious but with practice results aren't too bad sometimes. There's also a fern with some ghosting you could touch up while you're at it. Hope this helps.

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Thumb-up    from hangglider/Arlen (212) Send mail to this user on November 3, 2009 8:38:08 PM CST (2) Early critique

Will,

The blue cast in the water and the blown highlights do detract a bit from this very nice scene. I always expose for the highlights when I'm shooting waterfalls. That can sometimes result in underexposure of other parts of the scene, so I'll often resort to HDR too. If you have the ability to turn on clipping indicators on your Pentax screen that'd be a great way to make sure you're not blowing highlights. If not, you can keep an eye on the histogram of the image when you shoot it. You want to come as close to the right side of the histogram as you can without actually hitting the right-most side. I'm not explaining this too well, but if you check out Luminouslandscape.com and search for articles on histograms you'll get the idea.

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Thumb-up    from gmf1951/Michael (1,003) Send mail to this user on November 3, 2009 7:45:53 PM CST (1) Early critique

Very interesting place and nice composition. The thing that I most often see in this type of shot (slower shutter speeds when photographing moving water) is blown highlights that kill the "ribbon" effect in the water. Unfortunately, there are several super-hot areas that detract from an otherwise nice pic. Also, my take on HDR is that it can tend to flatten an image and compromise contrast and things that can add drama and an additional dimension to a pic. I think that's the case here in that contrast is lacking. All that being said, it IS a nice pic...just could be a lot better. Keep shooting! Mike

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From munecito/Will (450) Send mail to this user on November 3, 2009 7:54:47 PM CST

Hello Mike and thanks for your critique. To be honest the only reason why I make this into an HDr was to try and savage the pictures that I took of the cascade that weren't very good as my wife was asking me to hurry up and get out of there because we still had 130kms to Sydney. The originals were very overexposed and I modified them a bit in ps before deciding and trying this. How can I avoid the blown highlight in future? I actually think that even with the highlights it make a good memento of the day. Just have to remember to take a bit of time playing with the settings next time, and maybe leave the wife at home. LOL. It is a very step learning curve but I am enjoying every second of it. Will

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From gmf1951/Michael (1,003) Send mail to this user on November 3, 2009 9:45:22 PM CST

A neutral density filter (0.6) is often helpful when trying to avoid blown highlights in situations like this when there is a lot of light as oftentimes you just run out of "room" exposure-wise when setting your shutter speed at 1/5 second or whatever. It can also help to underexpose a bit. Be sure to shoot RAW so that recovering underexposed areas is a bit easier. Always expose for the hightlights...i.e., if you have an otherwise nominally lighted scene the meter is going to try to optimize those areas at the expense of the highlights....you just have to outsmart it (e.g., shoot at -1, -2, whatever). Best thing to do is what you're doing....bracket, experiment, and have fun! Mike

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